Matelassé vs. Quilted

Derived from the French term meaning “quilted,” the story of Matelassé begins in the early 18th century in Marseilles, France. This region was celebrated for its exquisite “trapunto” or “whitework” quilting. During this time, England, eager to enter the fine textile market, sought to replicate these luxurious materials domestically. In the early 1740s, Robert Elsden rose to the challenge by developing a method to recreate fabric on a loom that maintained the quilted appearance of Marseilles’ handiwork. By the 1760s, this fabric, known as “Marseilles Cloth,” became commercially available in England. In response, France, intent on preserving the identity of their hand-quilting tradition, began using the term “matlasser,” meaning “to quilt” in French. This term eventually evolved into “Matelassé,” the name we use today.

Quilted MINI FLAP

Matelassé MINI FLAP

While Matelassé and quilted leathers share similarities, they differ in technique and application:

Matelassé:

- Features a padded or cushioned appearance without actual padding.

- Created by stitching two layers of leather or fabric together with a wadded texture in between, forming a raised pattern.

Quilted Leather:

- Features a padded or cushioned appearance with actual padding foam in between the two layers.

• Involves sewing two or more layers together with batting in between.

Quilted Classic in Fabric Flap 

During the 1997-98 Chanel’s uprooting era ( you can read full article about this on my website) Chanel started using the quilted method for flaps to give them a more puffed look. But In my opinion, this change was driven by the desire to save money and speed up production, as Matelassé requires a more complex approach and is harder to make because it requires specialized weaving techniques and equipment, while quilting involves stitching layers of fabric, which is generally more straightforward.

Matelassé Classic in Fabric Flap 

So, next time you tell me you don’t like a vintage flap because the quilts are deflated, you should consider looking for a new flap, not vintage. This “deflation” is part of your bag’s design and authenticity.

Is this Matelassé or Quilted? You should know by now :)