Unveiling the Hidden Language of Chanel's Leather Goods

A few stamps and marks might appear on Chanel leather goods, which might seem unusual but they're there for a reason - often hidden inside the product. Let's delve deeper into this.

1. Private Sales or Vente Privées (VPs): These stamps are associated with exclusive events organized by designer brands as a token of appreciation for their loyal customers. The leather gets foil-stamped with "Ventes Privée" and the year of the event. These items usually have serial numbers, although they can be removed. 

2. Presse Vente (VP): These sales allow journalists, editors, and media professionals to preview and potentially purchase Chanel products for editorial coverage, such as new collection releases or limited designs. Bags from these events have "PRESS" stamped on the leather or "VP" foil-stamped. Most "PRESS" stamped items will have serial numbers.

3. Sample Items: These are typically provided to interns, artisans, brand ambassadors, influencers, and others. You might see a marker line through the heat stamp, serial number sticker, or both. These bags, often displayed in the store front, can be sold to employees or staff. They bear a heat stamp that reads "SAMPLES NOT FOR SALE", "SAMPLE", or "S".

4. Flagship Boutique: When Chanel revamps a flagship boutique, they often release limited edition items exclusive to that store. These items carry a stamp of the boutique location and the date of the renovation or opening. An example is the collection from the Chanel 57TH NYC flagship store redesign in 2004 and 2018.

5. Charity Auction Bags: Chanel is known for participating in charity events like the amfAR Gala for AIDS Research and The Heart Fund event. Bags sold at these events may bear the charity name.

Sellers might remove or scratch these stamps to boost the value of their items, so it's important to search for any signs of them on your bag. If the stamp is directly on the leather, it can be erased using alcohol. If it's on a leather tab, they may unstitch the entire label.

Access to these exclusive events is by invitation only. Also, any Chanel bag showing these "extras" or "less-tras" is often sold cheaper in the second-hand market. Unfortunately, there's a rise in counterfeit VPs items, as they sometimes lack serial numbers, allowing scammers to deceive buyers. 

Lastly, you might find items from previous collections at VPs events. The purpose of these events is to prevent excess inventory and maintain the brand's image. However, due to a 2020 law in France against destroying unsold goods, there's been an increase in VPs events. Companies like PeeVee and Arlettie specialize in these events for other brands, ensuring a smooth transition between old and new owners. For Chanel, the maison arranges the event themselves.

Here's an interesting tidbit, shared for the first time: If your vintage bag has the word COCO®️ stamped on the leather, then it was produced in 1986-87. This stamping was a celebratory mark for the reestablishment of the word trademark COCO, a process that happened between 1986-87.